Printmaking

Creating a letterpress plate using artwork exported to pdf

This is a how to article in creating a letterpress plate from the beginning to the end. The order starts out with a design, a color chosen, and a file sent. On this order the designer created a vector art file and set a fill to pms 872 gold. The document was then exported to a press ready pdf using the color model cmyk and spot color. After art is approved it is sent to the printer in which starts out in the prepress department. This is becoming more and more of a lost art since so much printing is done using digital printers. When the job requires printing on a letterpress, offset press, flexo press, intaglio, or silkscreen; then knowing how to create correct files and checking them are a must.

Artwork from Press Ready PDF

This order is for printing on a napkin using a letterpress. So to start we need to correctly separate the gold channel which should be contained in the pdf. If this was a rgb file then the gold would be a small amount of cmyk colors and would not work in creating a printing plate. The plate has be 100% solid in the relief part to create a solid gold impression. It cannot be screened down or cross hatched.

Below are the steps that I personal take given the quality needed, resources, and the equipment we have.

Step 1: RIP the pdf: This will separate all color channels. If the file is cmyk plus spot we will have 5 files created. Since this is a one color job then the pms 872 color channel is the only one we need. Below is an application developed at Hobart Printing to help speed up the workflow. Ghostscript is used to separate the pdf into tiff files. Our app speeds things up by locating the source file and then naming of the output files. No more escaping long path names in a mac terminal, shell, or windows cmd console. Below is a screen preview of the opened press ready pdf file.

Preview of press ready pdf

Below is example of the command given to ghostscript which is done in the PrePressActions application. This can also be done in a shell (teminal, cmd console) using ghostscript. On macOS and linux the command is ‘gs’. On windows it is ‘gswin64 or gswin32’. At the command prompt use below.

gs -dNOSAFER -dNOPAUSE -sDEVICE=tiffsep -r1200 -sOutputFile=outfile-p%03d-gs.tiff infile.pdf

DPI set for 1200 - recommended for line art
DPI set for 1200 – recommended for line art.

Below picture shows the menu items and it is here that we select the art PDF from a file dialog box. This will give ghostscript the file path and file name of the input file.

Open a pdf, and separate it into files.

Below we see the preview of the artwork from the macs file open dialog. It has a gold image only. No other colors. From the preview we really don’t know the color model used in the pdf; is this cmyk, rgb, or a cmyk plus spot color?

Find pdf artwork in dialog box and select file.

Below shows the results of executed ghostscript program with the options given. Circled in red is the command name “gs” and the “options” given the the program. Also is shown the files created, directory of opened file and directory of new directory that contains the files. I can see that a spot color file was created. Good news!

Looking at ghostscript output

Below: I am in a file browser (macs is called Finder, windows is called Explorer). I can see that the gold separation looks correct. But to be sure I will be opening this file in GIMP. Photoshop, and Affinity Photo would also work.

Here is the file we will use. It has the name PMS 872

Below looking at the Black separation. It is blank and that’s a good sign. I checked the other colors as well and they are blank. If this was an RGB color model the RGB colors would have been converted to cmyk in which we would have a light gray image on all colors. I could bring the strongest color and fix it on this project; But that will be another blog post how to.

Black separation file has no image. This is how it should be.

Step 2: Inspect separated file or files.

Below shows the opened gold separation file. Circled in red are points of interest. The eye dropper was selected, the option “pick only” was selected, the eye dropper cursor was moved over the art and mouse was left clicked, the “color picker” box at that point was shown and the cmyk values where displayed. This shows that the black grayscale image produced by ghostscript is 100 percent K. This is a must to make the plate.

Inspecting the separation pms 872 file.

Before we go on to the next step I need to mention output devices. We use the Xante Impressia to create a negative, and we use the Xante EnPress to make offset plates. Both of these digital ‘laser’ printers use the IQue print server and will print out a grayscale that is 100% black as line art. Therefore if you have an image that has 100 percent black type and an image (photo picture); the type will not be screened but the photo that is not 100 percent will be  – screened!  That is a good feature to have. I have used output devices – very high end ones – and a gray scaled image would always be screened – even 100% black type. If you are needing line art that will not be screened on these devices then the image needs to be a mono bitmap (or 1 bit indexed). It will have a color palette of 2 – on or off. This can be done in GIMP or Photoshop. Photoshop calls this a ‘bitmap’ format. GIMP calls it indexed.

Below is the settings for creating such a file. I have done this many times. An example usage would be having hard copy type artwork, scanning it to 600 or 1200 dpi as a grayscale. Bringing the pdf scanned in a GIMP program. The image should have retained the dpi scanned settings, if not change it. Convert the grayscale to mono bitmap. Export back to PDF. Put on RIP server and the type will not be screened and will be as smooth as if you had the original fonts and artwork. That would be a topic for another day.

Finding image mode to create index image
GIMP Dialog box for creating indexed image of 1 bit
Color Map of converted image.

I usually export the converted indexed 1 bit image to a tiff image format.

Step 3: Create marks so that we can register the 2 images together when printing to a transparent film. First create guides by putting the mouse on the ruler and pressing down on left mouse button. Start dragging.

Move mouse to ruler and press left button down.

Below: Dragging the line down to where you need it then release left mouse button.

Dragging the guide and then releasing mouse when it is in the right place

Below: When finished it should look like this.

All guides set in place.

Below: Start creating marks by choosing pencil, setting the width, then dragging along the guides. I set the thickness 9-12 pixels.

Select pencil in gimp.

Below: Close up of the registration mark.

Create the marks following the guide.

Below: finished with the making the registration marks.

Registration marks made on all 4 corners.

Below: Crop the image using GIMP selection tool.

Selection tool.

Below:

Drag and release mouse using selection tool.

Below: From the menu select “Image” then “Crop to Selection”.

From menu select crop from selection.

Below: This is a look at the final image. It has registration marks and is 100% black image at 1200 dpi. The next step is to invert this image. What is black will be white and what is white will be black. I use ImageMagick for this purpose however below is how to do it in GIMP.

Final look at the cropped image.

Below: using imagemagick on mac terminal or windows “cmd” console. Notice I used escaped_inputfile. If you have spaces in the filename or directory and you are using mac; my\ directory/my\ file.tiff . If you have no spaces then no escaping necessary. This is another way our ‘prepress-actions’ program speeds up the workflow.

convert -negate escaped_inputfile escaped_outputfile

Using GIMP – On menu choose Colors->invert

Below is what the inverted file preview looks like.

Preview of inverted image. Grayscale with all pixels all 100% black or 0%

Step 4: Imposition art 2 up on 8.5 x 11 document. We use scribus to accomplish this task. We will insert this image and place it 2 up. This program does the task correctly. There are some programs that will reinterpret the placed image when exporting to a pdf. Another plus is that it is open sourced and runs on windows, mac, or linux;  is a first class citizen in desktop publishing. Other programs that I have used and can do the job correctly are Adobe InDesign and Illustrator, Affinity Designer and Publisher, and Quarkxpress. There may be others but these I have actually used.

Below: Created new document in Scribus and inserting the image.

After image box placed on document, right click the box and get the image.
fileopen dialog: chose file to open.
Scribus, adjust the frame to the image.
A look at the image centered at the top of the document.
A look at the document after the top image was copied and pasted near the bottom.

Below: Now that we have the image 2up and the document saved it time to export this document to a press ready pdf. In doing that we want the original 1200 dpi, grayscale color model, and pixel values to remain exactly as the image placed. In using scribus export the below options are not suggestions but a must. Doing so will make sure that there are no changes or reinterpretations of the image.

Scribus document being exported to press ready pdf.
On general tab make sure PDF 1.4 compatibility is selected.
On Color tab select ‘Printer’
Scribus export ‘general’ tab, save file.
Dialog box reporting the progress of the exported pdf.

Step 5: Create film. After the last step we have artwork exported and it is now ready for printing on our Xante Impressia laser printer, using Xante transparency film. We use the Xante print server in which has a file drop box feature; also known has Hot Folders. When the file is dropped into this folder then it is put in into the print servers queue.

Dragging art file to IQue hot folder.
The files ready for print on IQue print server. Double click the file.
Set up for printing on transparency film.
Imposition settings.
Add On selected. From here we can press print.
Choose the printer for printing dialog box.
Put film in the tray for printing.
The film in the output tray after printing.
Film on the light table for inspection.
Cut the film and scratch one set of registration marks to help register them.
One image registered on top of another image. This creates a density on the black part to keep the plate from being exposed.
Find the right size of plate. For napkin orders most of the time they are from cut offs from doing invitation plates.

Below: Cut the plate down and tape the negative to the plate. The emulsion of the film should be on top of the emulsion of the plate. It is placed in the vacuum frame and the air is drawn out. The film and plate are tight against each other where light cannot get between.

Film taped to letterpress plate and in vacuum.

Below the table is flipped up and the plate is being exposed to ultra violet light. This will expose the polymer plate. Where the light exposes the plate is where it will be hard.

Flip the table up and make exposure.
Plate being exposed to ultra violet light.
Exposed plate with unexposed part being brushed out.
With T shirt pat excess water.
Blow dry for about 1 – 2 minutes.
Trim plate down to fit in chase.
Tape plate on outside of vacuum table. The plate is still damp.
Expose to harden entire plate. This will make sure that the unexposed part is now exposed.

Below: Final Plate. This is ready to be mounted on a chase and set up for the letterpress.

Final plate ready for printing.

I used all open source applications in this example. (Excluding the print server)

2 thoughts on “Creating a letterpress plate using artwork exported to pdf

  1. Can you use this technique for wedding invitations where the client wants the artwork to leave a deep impression?

  2. Yes! We use this technique on napkins, invitations, and all prepress work. In this way we have control of the artwork when customers send by pdf.

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